Download Birdhouses and More by A.J. Hamler PDF

By A.J. Hamler

ISBN-10: 1440333149

ISBN-13: 9781440333149

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Put a bit of glue on the ends of the tray front and slip into position at the bottom/front of the assembly, then clamp in place (PHOTO 7). Then reinforce with a couple of brads or finishing nails. Finally, attach the feeder bottom with countersunk 1⅝" screws and your work on the main portion of the feeder is done (PHOTO 8). To cover and protect the feed and still have easy access PHOTO 1 When crosscutting large stock with a jig saw, always clamp the material to a secure work surface. PHOTO 2 Mark the feeder sides for accurate placement of the divider.

While the 8" height of the nails isn’t critical, be sure to locate the front and back nails exactly even with each other or the door will twist as it opens. When you’re satisfied with the door action, set the nails just below the surface with a nail set. Apply a bit of waterproof glue along all the top edges except the door, and nail the roof in place so that its rear bevel fits flush with the back piece. Cut a ¾" x ¾" x 2¼" piece of cedar to function as a toggle latch for the door. I’ve rounded each end of this piece with a disc sander, but it’s fine to leave them square.

The last measurement you need to make is the distance between the outside of the bottle’s neck and the body of the bottle. When laid down on its side, this measurement will determine the height of the cutout in the front collar. When all your critical measuring is done and written down, cut the project parts to overall length and width by whatever means you prefer. In PHOTO 3, I’m making a perfectly straight rip cut with a jig saw by clamping a straightedge to the workpiece to guide the cut. The feeder roof has a slight slant to it, so when cutting parts make a 5-degree bevel on the top of the front collar and the back edge of the roof.

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