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If the clamp should get intimate with the bit, it may suffer, but the bit won’t and neither will your fingers. Finally, let me remind you about the sweaty palms syndrome. Working with small pieces often triggers it in me. ”—I make it a point to listen. Rather than struggle with a safe and effective way of shaping very small pieces, you can often shape an edge of a much larger piece, then cut the small part free. Here’s a batch of drawer pulls formed by rounding the long edges of a board. The grooves become a tongue, and a series of blind coves—finger holds—routed in the underside segment the strip for crosscutting into individual pulls.
No physical danger involved, but the bit is now scrap. Shims clamped to the fence reduce the bit exposure, thus reducing the cut (right). Use two or three shims on the first pass. A single spring clamp on the outfeed end of the fence is all you need, since the pressure you apply to keep the work against the fence will also hold the shims against the infeed side. The final pass, made with all the shims removed from the fence, is full depth and free of chipping (right). indd 38 4/17/07 4:15:29 PM BASIC KNOW-HOW Using Shims The shim is my first workaround.
Set the fence tangent to the bearing to get the full profile. The common technique is to slide a small rule back and forth across the fence’s bit opening, positioning the fence where the rule brushes the bearing without actually moving it. Not every profile bit has a pilot bearing. Align the fence tangent to the smallest portion of its cutting diameter. Bridge the fence’s bit opening with your rule and turn the bit with your fingers. You want the cutting edge to graze the rule without pulling it.